Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Chotto hen, ne?

August 15th marked the day that Japan surrendered to the Allies, bringing World War II to a close. Japan admitted a full defeat and a full surrender. The emperor denied that we was a God, and the Japanese began to follow Western rule of law, bowing the military control of the United States. They still do to this day, as military bases are the only legally military institutions allowed in Japan.
One interesting and little-known fact about modern Japan. Yasukuni shrine lies in Tokyo. It is dedicated the emperor and his cabinet and as such glorifies, at least according to the leftists, war-criminals. It has been a point of criticism for Shinzo Abe, who prayed once a year at the shrine for `guidance`. It had greatly erroded foreign relations with China and Korea, the two major victims of the war crimes. Every year on August 15th, the right-wing pro-emperor nationalists form a defensive ring around Yasukuni shrine, and every year the japanese and international leftists march toward the shrine to protest. I`ve heard differing things; it`s as close to rioting as Japan gets, the streets are full of angry protestors wrestling with nationalists. Or, alternately, the violence is all staged, the `riot` is controlled by police and kept under their supervision and control, etc. It appears the August 15th is still an important day here.

On August 15th, last week, Nigel and I were walking back from a nearby city after we had missed the last bus on the way home from Tokyo. It was a long walk, about an hour and a half. On the way, we realized what amazing changes have swept through Japan in the last 60 years. Sixty years and a handful of days before our night walk home, we would not have been welcome. Our visit would have hinged solely upon our silence and ability with a rifle, two Gaijin walking through the quiet nighttime countryside. An American and a Brit in the modern era, we rely more on our wit and willingness to be embarrassed than our martial skill. In fact, rather than a military imposition, we are revered and even employed because of our nationality and language.

Things truly change here, despite all the history and tradition.

It`s very nice to be welcome, even if I am welcome as an outsider.

No comments: